This was a really good day at Puerto Escondido. Surfline posted a video of the session called “Puerto Grande,” which got a ton of views.
I was riding a 9’0″ tri-fin gun and it worked insane. My friend Derek Dunfee and I surfed it all morning and were the only guys other than local chargers Coco and Oscar to surf it that night. It was sick.
The rip currents at Puerto Escondido are fierce. They will kill you, especially when the surf’s big.