I saw this photo on the Web, so I grabbed it. It’s a picture my friend Todd Glaser took of me during a good swell in La Jolla.

This is a wave in my backyard. I have been surfing it since I was 10 years old. Learned how to ride the barrel by surfing The Rock.

I have seen tons of injuries out there because the wave slabs onto a really shallow shelf.  A broken femur, hip, numerous arms, ribs, face bones, and feet, and serious lacerations, are a handful of the injuries I have seen and attended to while surfing out there over the years. It is a real short and critical wave that packs tons of power.

The Rock has history all the way back to the legendary Pipeline pioneer Butch Van Artsdalen. It was his childhood stomping grounds and where he learned how to ride the barrel. I grew up watching Joe Roper and David Eggers put on clinics out there.

It is impossible to get a wave at The Rock if you didn’t grow up there. The takeoff spot is tiny, you can only go left, and all of the locals are gnarly.

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