Outer Island Indonesia

The outer islands in Indonesia hold some incredible surf. This wave in particular is one of the best I have ever surfed. It is not unusual to ride 16-second barrels out there.

Shawn Briley, one of the gnarliest surfers in the world throughout the 1990s, surfed this wave decades ago and got barrels over 22 seconds long. His brother, Kalani Chapman, is following in his footsteps, carrying the legacy on.

I took these photos after absolutely scoring for three days straight. The section of the wave taken in the photos is called the “grower” because the wave actually builds as it runs down an extremely shallow section of the reef.

Not many guys surf the grower section because it is so dangerous. Heard Rob Machado loves it, but not many other guys are good enough to ride it. If you make a barrel through the grower section, it could be the most insane barrel of your life. If you don’t make the barrel, you could be in for a terrible beating and long trip out of the desert before reaching a hospital for medical attention.

This entry was posted in Travel Blog. Bookmark the permalink.

One Response to Outer Island Indonesia

  1. Wiley says:

    Yeah MONSTER! thats so rad you put this up amigo, killin it!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *