Shawn Briley, one of the gnarliest surfers in the world throughout the 1990s, surfed this wave decades ago and got barrels over 22 seconds long. His brother, Kalani Chapman, is following in his footsteps, carrying the legacy on.
I took these photos after absolutely scoring for three days straight. The section of the wave taken in the photos is called the “grower” because the wave actually builds as it runs down an extremely shallow section of the reef.
Not many guys surf the grower section because it is so dangerous. Heard Rob Machado loves it, but not many other guys are good enough to ride it. If you make a barrel through the grower section, it could be the most insane barrel of your life. If you don’t make the barrel, you could be in for a terrible beating and long trip out of the desert before reaching a hospital for medical attention.