Season Opener

Everyone is always fired up for the first Hawaii swell of the winter.

I took these two photos at Waimea Bay the first morning of the swell. Later that day there must have been more than 100 surfers in the lineup. It looked hectic.

I was still too weak from dengue fever to surf, and although I would have been stoked to catch a couple solid waves to get the winter kicked off, I wasn’t shattered. Had a good time watching everyone.

I ended up catching some of the best waves I had ever caught out there at the very end of the season with a really light crowd anyway. Was stoked on that.

Photos: (Top) Jamilah Star always puts on an entertaining show. (Bottom) Buttons is one of my favorite surfers from the ’70s, and he was looking real strong and healthy paddling out this session.


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