138 Hours Away

Eddie Aikau was a legend. Tragically, he was lost at sea while trying to save his crew as they ran into trouble during a traditional long-distance Polynesian island crossing.

Eddie was an incredible waterman, lifeguard, and big-wave surfer from Hawaii, and to honor and pay respect to his life, the most legendary surfers of today compete in the most prestigious big-wave surf contest in the world: The Eddie Invitational.

The Eddie is only held when the surf reaches 20 feet or higher, so some years the contest will never even happen. This was the case this past year. In order to keep the event the most prestigious in the world, there has to be no doubt that the surf is Eddie status — meaning it has to be huge.

This NOAA image was taken of the swell that had the most Eddie potential last year, and although all of the legends were on the beach when the surf showed up, it still wasn’t big enough to call on the contest. Some friends and I scored some absolutely perfect bombs at an outer reef this day, so it was still pretty big.

I like to track swells from the NOAA website because they have all of the raw data that the other surf websites bite off of to come up with surf forecasts.

I like to predict swells after looking at the NOAA Oracle, then bounce my prediction off Surfline.

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