Acid Drops and Clamshells

Surf’s been fun in front of my friend Jensen’s house at Log Cabins.

Today there was swell in the water and conditions were clean, but I wouldn’t say the surf was good, because the waves were all clamping at the end. Every wave that came through would look incredible at the start, but when they hit the reef they would quickly stack up, flare, and hucklebuck, forcing us to airdrop. By the time we stuck our landings and hooked it under the lip to make some ground in the barrel, we would get smashed by the clamshell section.

Being optimistic, I thought my last wave was different than every other that came through—stupid. It slapped me in the face and broke my board. At this rate I’ll break over 30 boards this year. Damn, I need to get better at making waves, because wipeouts are expensive.

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