Was in La Jolla for a week or so to celebrate Ted’s life with friends during his memorial paddle-out beach party, take a handful of beatings at a secret wave in my backyard, order a limited edition batch of Hungry Walrus t-shirts (out soon), hang with my awesome Grandma whose beating cancer with Chemo, walk through a crime scene death at WindanSea, pick up a mental quiver shaped by Rick Hamon at Rusty for Morocco and Europe, do a ton of work on SeaMonster (my custom travel guide service), and hang with friends and family.
Going to Morocco tomorrow. Was there on a fun high school surf team trip when I was 16 years old. Excited to get back over there and surf some secret running ledges.
Photo: Michael Sangiolo, Michael Maher, and Mark Frapwell.