Took off in the dark to score the slab before the wind got on it this morning, but yet again, was denied a session. Was shot down this time because the tide was to low for the swell direction. The slab’s got to be one of the most needy waves I’ve ever tried to surf. It has to have the perfect wind, tide, swell size and direction, and the surf window’s only a couple hours long when it’s working.
Continuing up the coast in search of alternative spots, I came upon a good river mouth beach break. The beach is a mile long, has cliffs on both sides, and the river flows straight through the center. There wasn’t a soul around, and perfect, barreling peaks were cracking everywhere I looked.
After shooting a few photos, I threw on my wetsuit, ran a half-mile up the beach, and jumped into the river rip current. As I was hustling through the impact zone, a thick set stacked up, and I wore 3 double-up nuggets on the head. Wasn’t very big, but I bailed my board, and got pinned to the really shallow sandbar to start the session.
Ended up surfing all alone for 3 hours. Would have been so stoked to share the waves with someone, but my friend Sebastian’s been really sick with Moroccan measles, so he’s stuck in the house. Some radical viruses around here.
I’m not a morning person, but was stoked to get up early and surf today. Have a few more chances to ride the slab before I leave Morocco, but I’m not counting on it. Great that with a little exploration, there are plenty of other good options to get some barrels around here.