Met Zach Weisberg a few years ago in Hawaii. I was camping on the North Shore of Oahu because there was no money for rent, but wanted to surf big waves so badly that I just made it happen.
Was living on peanut butter, and got worked by storms for a couple months before catching one of the biggest waves of my life at an outer reef called Phantoms. I almost drowned twice that season. Once getting caught inside third-reef Pipeline before the sun came up, and the other was from getting bulldozed after making the drop on a big one at Phantoms. Learned a lot about the benefits of hyperventilating and slowing down my heart rate before big wave sessions that year.
At that time Zach was working for Surfer Magazine, along with a good friend of mine named Adam Warren. Surfer Magazine always rents a nice house for their staff during the Triple Crown, so Adam took me in and fed me for a week, which is where I got to know Zach.
Fast forward three years, and Zach is no longer working for the magazine, is back in college getting a masters degree in literature, and has created a great website called The Inertia.
The Inertia is surfing’s definitive online network, featuring news, commentary, photography, and art from the global surf community’s most talented and prominent figures.
Recently, while Zach was surfing Playa Colorado, Nicaragua (one of my favorite places in the world), he ran into a good friend of mine named Buzz who lives down there. They got to talking, and Hungry Walrus came up. Since Hungry Walrus was founded only 6 months ago, Zach hadn’t heard of it yet.
After checking out the site, Zach wrote me a message asking if I’d be interested in joining The Inertia as a contributing writer, along side some of my hero’s like Gerry Lopez, Jim Moriarty (Surfrider Foundation CEO), Kelly Slater, and a talented list of other important figures in surfing, music, environment, travel, photography, politics, art, and business media.
Am honored Zach thinks my writing and lifestyle is relevant enough to hang with the influential individuals who contribute to one of the best surf/travel editorial websites ever created.
If you’re interested, click this link to read my first contribution to The Inertia. It’s a personal story that wasn’t easy to write, but I hope has a positive impact on those who read it.
Surf Photos: Jeff Flindt shot these of me at Pipeline during that Hawaii season I spent crashing under vacant houses. Top Photo: Headed to Australia from Fiji via Life Flight.