After surfing glassy Teahupoo eight hours a day, for three straight days, my eyes are bleeding, skin is thrashed from solar radiation, and joints are sore from violent beatings. Been some of the most fun sessions I’ve had in a good while.
The last three days didn’t start great though. Ended up taking off really deep on my first wave, didn’t make the barrel, got bounced across the low tide reef, and spilled out into the lagoon.
After a 40 minute paddle back around the reef into the line-up, I spun late on a big one, barley made the drop, and tried to bottom turn in time to pack the west bowl, but got completely destroyed by the lip, sucked over the falls, and buckled my last board, a 7’0 custom Rusty. Was the worst wipeout I’ve dealt with at Teahupoo thus far. Luckily, I surfaced in time to avoid getting demolished by the lip of the next wave in the set.
Got those two beatings out of the way, and the days turned to dreams.
For two months I’ve been living in the isolated Teahupoo valley, and after a run of surf like the recent, there is absolutely no doubt in my mind that I’m doing the right thing. So stoked and fortunate to be here.
Only thing that could have made the sessions better, were if it were bigger, but that day will come, and I’ll be here for it.
John John Florence flew in for the swell and was proving to be hands-down one of the best tube-riders in the world, but he only surfed Teahupoo one day before taking off to surf some different reefs with Raimana, which was awesome because there were more waves to go around.
A life message was just reinforced: Even when your getting the crap beat out of you, never give up, because dreams come true. Cliche, but reality.
Photos: Rebeca Baros shot the spitting empty wave that came through, and another girl took the shots of me. Those two girls were the only people to cruise out and take pictures, and stayed for an hour. Grabbed the last photo off Facebook to show the surfers point of view, which was taken a different day by Pedri tojal.