After a great run of swell, a heavy storm came though and cooled down the valley. The rain enabled me to finish Tolstoy’s War And Peace – a book I’ve tried to read for three years. After the storm cleared, was ready to get back outside.
Been paddling out for a handful of glassy barrels every morning, and ended up riding the best head-high wave of my life the other day. Teahupoo’s heavy even when it’s small. Every time you paddle out there’s the chance of catching an incredible wave and having a spiritual experience, but it’s always dangerous.
My friend Simon split his head and shoulder open on the reef a couple days ago, spent a day in the hospital getting staples, and is now headed to Australia to have surgery from a specialist because he’s lost the use of his right arm.
After surfing, I walk up the Teahupoo valley, eat fruit from the trees, and swim in the refreshing river, which is pure enough to drink.
In the valley, I take deep breaths into my belly until my blood is saturated with Oxygen, and relax. The breathing usually turns into meditation, which is one of the most healing practices in the world. It manifests positivity, calmness, and healing in life.
I’ve become friends with some locals in the valley, and they’ve been gracious enough to have me over for family meals, and even shown me their livelihood by taking me fishing.
Been learning about Tahitian pearls from farmers and traders as well. Tahitian pearls are some of the most unique in the world because of the dark color and large size. Pearl diving and farming are popular professions for villagers living in the Tuamotu archipelago (island chain that runs above the island of Tahiti), and their spoils flood the market in Papeete town.
The diving’s also been good. Always enjoy kicking around the reef passes, which is something I do on a regular basis. Haven’t been spearfishing much because my neighbors have been feeding us tons of fish, but I love to trip out on all the alien-like creatures and beautiful sharks that live in the clear Tahitian waters.
Other than the head high wave of my life, and Simon getting sent home due to injury, there hasn’t been much going on the past couple weeks.
Some heavy Kauai locals who call Tahiti a second home moved into the house yesterday and we’re all going fishing tomorrow with our neighbor. Looking forward to it.
Surf Photos: Domenic Mosqueira