After a couple months in the Teahupoo valley, decided to go island hopping in search of some other good waves to surf and reefs to dive. Took off with a couple good friends (Eugenio from Italy and Raff from Australia), and have spent the past couple days exploring Tahiti’s sister island.
Borrowed a friends car and drove it from Teahupoo onto the ferry headed to Moorea. We were planning on camping on the beach when we got to the island, but ended up running into Eugenio’s friend, Francoise, on the ferry.
Francoise has been cool enough to let us crash at his beachfront house, and take advantage of his boat that’s kept in the lagoon out front. Francoise works as a surf-product distributor, and is originally from French Guiana. He and his awesome wife Marine, have been living in Tahiti for years and know it well. We get along great, partly because one of Francoise’s favorite places in the world is my home town of La Jolla.
Spent the past couple days surfing fun localized waves (surf over here is protected for good reason), eating incredible home cooked European meals, and cruising around the island by land and sea. The steep mountains and crystal clear water is something out of dreamland.
We’ve also been hanging with a crew who just won a catamaran race from California to Tahiti. Interesting listening to their radical stories about giant squid, killer whales, staph infections, hurricanes, and life on the sea.
Francoise and Marine are good friends with Tom Curren’s family, and have Tom’s nephew, Danjéré, as a guest in the house as well. Danjéré surfs with Curren style, and is a great guy. The 6 of us have been laughing our heads off around the island. All those guys are crashing in the house and on the deck, so I put the tent in the garden for some space.
Took these sunset photos from the beach at Francoise and Marines. The house on the pier was made for a movie and left to a family. Pretty awesome to be able to tie up a boat and fish from your living room.
Looking forward to tomorrow, going diving.