Must have watched the wave at the 4:00 mark 50 times. It’s the most incredible wave that came through that swell.
Cloudbreak is amazing. You can see all the surfers in the video sitting at the normal “ledge” takeoff spot, and area of the reef that allows you to paddle into huge waves and get a bottom-turn in and your speed up before the wave grows into a giant freight-train barrel.
Just up the reef from the “ledge” takeoff spot, there’s a step in the reef that jaunts out a little bit, defining the normal zone. If you go up the reef to get there (outside of the step), you often times have the opportunity to get an unpredictable and short Teahupoo style barrel, that spits you out under the ledge at the normal takeoff spot. It’s insane, but really risky because it’s so shallow up there and easy to get caught inside by the next wave in the set.
The wave at the 4:00 mark is really unusual. The tide, swell size and direction, all came together perfectly to connect that wave from way up the reef (above the step), through the normal takeoff spot – spinning it off like a mutant freak of nature that’s every big wave surfers wet dream.
Heard from guys in the lineup that it actually broke big pieces of coral off the reef that clouded the water for a while. If stuck in the wrong spot, that wave could easily kill even the strongest surfer in the water.
Love this video. You’ll see many more like it in seasons to come. Believe it or not, Cloudbreak get’s much bigger and even more perfect than the video. That’s why it’s the best wave in the world.