I just moved into a friends house that sits on the beach in front of a big lagoon on the main island of Tahiti. The house is an hour away from the Teahupoo village I lived in earlier this year.
Stoked to have already settled in. Picked up all my boards that were scattered across the island, have a fast boat, comfortable car, pregnant dog named Fatia, little cat named Mini with kitten Obaliques, big kitchen, and my own section of the house.
The house was built by an artist, so it’s construction is quirky and creative. It has an inspirational and positive feeling.
Spent the first few days snorkeling and stand-up paddleboarding in the big lagoon out front. Now I’m anticipating a good swell that should show up soon.
I’ve surfed small Teahupoo a few times since I arrived, as well as a couple other outer-reefs that Francois and Tahitian surf legend Manoa Drolet showed me, but don’t have any photos of the sessions.
I’m having a good time cruising the island and playing in the crystal clear warm waters. Feel very fortunate and appreciative.
Francois and his wife Marine have styled me out huge. It’s great to see all my friends in Tahiti again.