Back To Puerto Escondido

Headed home from Puerto just in time to avoid a mild Mexican hurricane. I probably would have ridden-out the storm, but I needed to spend five days in San Diego to re-qualify for my seasonal lifeguard position. The re-quals consist of swim and safety tests, including EMT re-certification.

As soon as the tests were finished, I hopped over the boarder to snag some waves during one of the biggest south swells of the early-season. I knew it was a good call when my big wave surfing friends Greg Long, and Coco Nogales got on the same last minute flight.

Greg Long

Today is the second day of the swell. It’s gnarly out there. The surf isn’t as tall as I expected, but it’s packing a ton of energy. Yesterday I managed to snag a few closeouts and got absolutely demolished.

Don’t know Nic Lamb but he got a good one.

Awesome to see my good friend Max Diaz charging!

I took all these photos during one of the only clean sets this morning.

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