Wild West

Just got home from an awesome and rugged trip to Mexico. My friends and I went on a recon mission to a secret, heavy, fickle wave. After a good deal of effort we made it to the wave, but the conditions shut us down. The wind was side-shore, but the surface conditions were very raw, making for a giant playing field with 99% closed out peaks.

That didn’t stop us from scoring though. We ended up finding some great waves at a different stretch of the isolated coastline. This wave in the photos was grinding around the rocks before standing up all the way to the beach. The water was blue, sand was pristine, and there was lots of sea life. I lucked into an absolutely perfect wave and came out of the barrel to find two dolphins launching out of the water while sharing the open face with me. We rode all the way to the beach together. It was a spiritual experience.

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