Local Grinds

January 15th, 2014

Last week I borrowed a long lens from Canon Camera and got to test it out down the street. Luckily there was a little swell in the water to shoot.

Christmas Eve

January 15th, 2014

Sorry about the large (c) John Maher watermark in the center of the photo… I don’t like to put them on there but lots of my photos are getting poached for the profit of businesses without asking me, let alone any compensation. Recently my photos have been plastered on billboards in Bali, and one of my photos was even spotted above a urinal in Kaohsiung, Taiwan!

I dropped my life savings into photo gear, so it doesn’t feel right giving everything away, you know.

Here are a handful from Christmas Eve.

The Newportification Of Blacks

January 15th, 2014

Blacks is paradise whether it’s crowded or not, however, it’s reaching a point where the crowds are so thick that the lineup is loosing order and integrity. As soon as the order is lost, sessions become frustrating for everyone.

There was a lot of room down there when I was growing up, but over the past five or six years the lineup is regularly shoulder to shoulder, and with the growing crowd comes a lack of manners and overall respect for one another.

A lot of the issues in the lineup are due to inexperience coupled with self entitlement.

Surfers: Lucas Dirkse and Matty.

Composition

January 8th, 2014

Thought some of you might enjoy checking out how close I get in order to shoot some of the surf photos I’ve been posting.

This is a sequence of Lucas Dirkse boosting an air over a shallow section of reef in La Jolla. The first photo was shot by Michael Sangiolo.

Windansea Boost

January 7th, 2014

Surfers: Jake Halstead, Lucas Dirkse

La Jolla Reefs – Small But Fun

January 7th, 2014

 

Surfer: Lucas Dirkse

Neighborhood Shredders

January 7th, 2014

Crazy how much surfing talent there is in San Diego. I’m so fortunate. On any given day I’m able to walk down to the beach with my camera and fins and shoot these guys.

Surfers: Lucas Dirkse, Mike Stuart, Colin Shreddah, Fano booster, and M Payne.

Wills Memories

December 31st, 2013

The Windansea pump house is were local family have been remembered for decades. Every day I look at it I think of all the radical things he did, and how precious life is.

Thanks to Paul Potash for taking and posting these photos from Wills’s Christmas Eve paddleout at Northside.

Wills had some great friends in his life, and one of them just made a Facebook page as a way to share more photos and memories.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rest-In-Peace-Frederick-Wills-Pelan/726562724022565

Wills also had his personal Facebook account but unfortunately it’s only accessed if you’ve been friends through that account in the past so it’s cool to share on the above facebook link for everyone to see.

His personal fb – https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rest-In-Peace-Frederick-Wills-Pelan/726562724022565

He had a rad blog called The Wondering Coyote, which he re-started after deleting an earlier version. It’s full of awesome adventures that can be seen through this link – http://thewanderingcoyote.blogspot.com/

Love you Wiley.

Wills Pelan Paddleout

December 26th, 2013

It was a beautiful ceremony for an incredible soul. The roots crew who hugged on the beach and paddled out to share stories and goodbyes was a testament to the wonderful company Wills kept.

Wills will be with us every time we get in the water and have a good adventure or a laugh, and his passing is a tragic reminder to appreciate good people and this crazy journey we call life.

Rest In Peace Soul Brother Wiley.

Wills Pelan

December 23rd, 2013

I heard terrible news that my good friend Wills “Wiley” Pelan has died. I have very few details, and none of them are concrete. All I can say at this point is that Wills was one of the the most soulful and caring souls cruising this earth. He was always one of the smartest dudes in our crew, shredded the guitar, and surfed with gracious style.

Wills and I saw eye-to-eye on just about everything from spirituality to surfing and women. We did some radical things together, like surf big Puerto Escondido (watched him catch one of the best waves of his life down there five years ago), rock guitars at all hours of the night in Santa Cruz, had a “surf gang” called GTL (goat trail locals at Blacks), we were on all the same school surf teams growing up, and we laughed our asses off all the time.

He moved to Peru to teach English and was held hostage in his house by the mafia because some Brazilians moved in with fancy camera equipment and the gangsters wanted it. Wills lived on a shoestring and there was nothing for them to steel from him, so they let him go after killing his dogs.

He ended up teaching in Indonesia for the past few years, where he seemed happy until recently. Wills and I used to talk about the destructiveness of alcohol all the time. He reached out to me about drinking and life in general on a regular basis through emails overseas.

I hate alcohol with a passion. No doubt that it was a part of killing Wills. That poison has assisted in taking too many of my friends young lives. If you think you have a problem with substances, please reach out to someone and realize life is manageable, and often times even enjoyable, without it.

I’m just so fucking bummed right now, and felt like writing this might help my other friends and I grieve.

Wills, I know your epic soul is living on right now, and I hope that you have reached another level of peace. Save a place in the lineup for us, it won’t be too long before we’re all shredding again soon.

I love you dude.

-If you look through the comments on my site, you’ll see that Wills was one of the only two people who ever write any. His last comments were three days ago, one is on the previous post, which is the same day they say he passed away. I wish I reached out to him more after a couple drunken posts he put up on facebook just before that, but didn’t know what else to say.. So sad.